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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: California
Posts: 99
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Looking for a good non yellowing medium
Help!!!!
I need this yellowing crap to stop and I mean now Any tips on a painting medium that won't yellow? I'll love you forever ![]() Last edited by Eve : 08-29-2006 at 07:11 PM. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 97
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There is no one answer to your quandary but Gamblin makes a few mediums that I have had luck with
Try Galkyd or Galkyd Lite These are a little glossy for some, but I love em The only con is that they dry so fast |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: California
Posts: 99
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 97
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Well on the packaging it says that it takes 24 hours to dry
but when you work with it, it starts to get tacky after 4-6 hours and I hate working with tacky medium so if you can work fast and in multiple layers then you’re safe but if you need more time- use stand oil |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 146
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stand oil is the only way to go!
stand oil mixed with turp. try 50/50 if that's still to thick then add more (turp.) in small amounts until you find the right mix for you my mix is 40% stand and 60% turp. It has never let me down or yellowed for that matter Last edited by saxor : 08-29-2006 at 10:32 PM. |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
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medium woes
By way of introduction, hi! You haven't really said what it is that you have used. Some people , when they are starting out will use a mixture of turps and raw lindseed oil. I did - bad idea! Do you mix your own medium? If so you might try Canada balsam and sun-thickened walnut oil mixed with a bit of oil of spike. Canada balsam is considered to be optically pure and is pretty well crystal clear. One of its uses is in the preparation of medical slides. Plus, it's non toxic and smells great as does oil of spike lavender. Any sun-thickened oil will yellow far less than raw linseed. Walnut is considered to be considerably less inclined to yellowing.
You might also consider moving away from colors ground in linseed oil. For instance, M Graham produced a line of oils ground exclusively in walnut oil. Blockx and to some extent Winsor Newton grind colors in alternative and less yellowing oils. I believe both use saflower oil. Saflower is far less yellowing and thus better regarded for the grinding of delicate colors. On the down side it is considered to be less durable as a siccative oil than linseed, which is regarded as being the most durable, it's tendency to yellow aside. Ideally, one would go through the somewhat arduous task of cleaning their oil, linseed or walnut. Cleaning the oils will rid the oil of mucilage. A cleaned oil is less yellowing. Here's a link on how to go about this. http://realcolorwheel.com/washlinseed.htm Now this IS a lot of work, more so than most people want to do or have the time to do but it IS what the old masters used to do. If you want to avoid the work or playing home scientist you might want to check out this link: http://blueridgeartist.com/OIL/MEDIUMS.html Blue Ridge Paints is owned and operated by colorman Eric Silver. Eric is a really good guy to deal with as well as being a good advisor. Plus he makes some really good paints and mediums. He sells washed and sun-bleached oils as well as sun-thickened linseed and walnut oils. I hope this is helpful. Good luck! RKM54 |
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